Pictures: Lyle Such

Writing: Thu Buu

Camera: Canon 5D MkIV

What an inauspicious, yet fitting beginning to our quest to infiltrate Mordor and Mt. Doom! After 35 hours of travel ladened with a long flight delay that caused a shortened layover, compiled with legal complications that had me running to catch my last two connections, I finally arrived in Auckland but without my baggage. Compared to Lyle, I had it easy. He couldn’t even get off the plane on his own due to a sharp pain in his left calf. So for the next day, we were holed up in a hotel room waiting for my luggage and resting Lyle’s leg, hoping for a quick recovery. We just shouldn’t fly separately.

Even the weather seemed to have been scheming against us in New Zealand that first day. We were greeted with rain, wind, and endless gray skies. Such a bleak start to our adventure! However the weather quickly turned amenable, and as we pulled out of the hotel, the sun was fighting to peek through. From then on, we had favorable winds at our backs most of the way.

Because of Lyle’s injury, I had to drive all the way through the North Island on the left-hand side. I got the hang of it quickly. New Zealand roads are the best to learn on. They’re smooth, long and well marked. As we got further south, the roads became more windy. It was actually fun to navigate the curves and hills. I enjoyed the drive and driving these roads tremendously.

The ever-changing scenery was spectacular. Lookout points were easily accessible, prompting us to stop off the side of the road often to enjoy the fresh, green countryside. Often times, there would even be a few picnic benches and a trash bin placed at these lookout points, as if to say, “Hey. Slow down. Sit down, take a breath, and enjoy the view. There’s no need to hurry. Enjoy the present moment. What a beautiful moment it is. Smile.” And that’s exactly why we travel.

Chateau Tongariro-Tongariro National Park

We had planned on staying two nights at this secluded chateau in the heart of Tongariro National Park to give us a couple of chances at besting Mt. Doom. Due to unforseen conditions, we were left with only one night here. We found out it wouldn’t have mattered much since the pass was closed the day before due to severe weather.

After a quick romp around the property, we geared up for our first hike to test out Lyle’s mobility level. At home, we had run through many different senarios on how to cover this hike, but given the reality of the situation, we knew there was no way we would be able to make it to the top and back. We just wanted to get a taste of and feel for Mordor, to see how strong our will to survive stands against the stench of evil or how quickly we succumb to morbidity and render ourselves powerless in the face of wickedness. That’s Mt. Doom back there.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The beauty is in the details. Little streams trickling beside the trail. Tiny blooms casting a purple hue upon the land. Grass and shrubs conquering rocks and boulders. Life was taking over in Mordor, giving us hope and renewed energy. Lyle’s leg was doing much better than we had expected. I even dared to look into the Dead Marshes and not get pulled under.

As we approached the base of Mt. Doom, the clouds parted ways and for the next ten minutes, the top of the volcano was in plain sight. How lucky we were to have witnessed this moment, we didn’t find out until much later. We ran across a hiker who had been on the trail since predawn. He revealed that the elusive Mt. Doom had been shrouded under thick clouds for most of the day except for the short expanse of time we caught it.

About three miles in, the trail had begun to climb upward at a steep angle. Continuing on the path required more scrambling on sharp volcanic rocks. It was among these dark rocks that Frodo and Sam hid under their Elven cloaks outside the Black Gate of Mordor. It was time to turn around. The sun bathed the land ahead of us with golden warmth, but behind us, an ominous wall of dark clouds had already concealed the whole of Mt. Doom. We escaped with our strength and dignity intact.

Hobbiton

Back to where it all began. Hobbiton is all in order. Nice little round holes under nice little green round hills. So many sweet colorful flowers blooming, filling the fresh air with intoxicating fragrances. Oh, such joy to see Hobbiton, innocent and undisturbed by the evils of the outside world. It’s good to be home again, isn’t Samwise?

Bilbo and Frodo Baggins Hobbit Hole, Bagend, The Shire, Middle-Earth. I fit perfectly inside the hobbit hole, and Lyle must have felt like Gandalf. No special effects here. I just love these round doors. One day, I’ll have me one of these Hobbit Holes. One day...

After the blockbuster success of the first movie, Hobbiton was rebuilt, This time sturdier, with more stable foundations and long-lasting intentions in mind. Every small detail in Hobbiton was and still is meticulously attended. I adore the little Hobbit clothes hanging on the lines. Most of the trees and plants are real. Even the giant pumpkins are planted each year by the gardeners who love their gardens just as much as any true Hobbit would love his or hers.

The Hobbit Hole with the yellow door below is the actual structure used in the movies as Samwise’s house. At the very end of the third movie when Sam returns from sending Frodo off, his wife and daughter meet him right here in front of this hole. It was built at one and a half scale compared to the other holes to fit the actors proportionally. See how high the fence is at the red door of Sam’s house?

Inside the Green Dragon for a pint of spicy Frogmorton Ginger Beer, a perfect balance of sweetness and tartness.

There’s no other way to end our journey in Middle-Earth except to become a Hobbit. I even forgo my sandals and walked around on bare feet. The mission has been achieved. The dream realized. I am perfectly content.